Fairy Meadows!

Dream comes true

“Fairy Meadows”! a valley out of this world where crystal clear streams of waters flows by, where the unseen flowers are spread on the virgin grass lands, and the snow covered mountains stand all around it so as to shield it from outside world. Beautiful fairies are the inhabitants of this valley that are waiting for a charming prince who can bear all the pains of travel but has a desire to elope with them. That is what I dreamt of about Fairy Meadows when I first came to know about it and since than I was dreaming about the fairies.

But this time I wasn’t alone in this dream. Around 21 people, the youngest one being just 3 years old, were making plans to make this dream come true. All these twenty one people were from my family. The idea had first been introduced by my eldest brother-in-law Anwar bhai who had been to Fairy Meadows last year. He is a traveling freak and has good management and execution skills. We had made number of trips and family picnics under his leadership, so when the idea was floated and the pictures of his last trip were shared, naturally people started making their minds to join the adventure group.

We started our planning for the trip almost six months ago, applying for leaves in offices in advance, forming committees and assigning responsibilities, booking of train compartments (from Karachi to Islamabad and back) etc. At last, the much awaited month of July had started and the journey begins. We left for Islamabad from Karachi through Burraq Express (don’t be misled by its name) and reached there after a 36 hours long but an enjoyable journey. Our coach had already been booked in advance and we directly set off for Gilgit (having a night stay in Bisham in the middle.)

Offroading Experience

Our actual journey for Fairy Meadows had started on the fifth day of the trip, when on early morning; we left Gilgit for Raikot Bridge. Raikot bridge lies in the middle of Gilgit and Chilas (110 kms from Chilas) from where the jeep trek to Fairy Meadows starts. A day earlier, we stopped at Chilas for a tea break (in Shangrila Hotel), it was too hot that we had prayed for the fine weather as we had to take 2 hours journey on jeep and than 4 hours tough hiking. So today our prayers have been answered and the weather was pleasant as there were clouds on the sky.

Raikot Bridge is a bridge on Karakoram Highway over River Indus. The valley here is extremely barren with not a single tree to be in sight. All around you are just towering mountains and large boulders. One cannot imagine that there exist lush green valleys and a thick forest of Pine trees just fifteen kilometers away. The only source of life visible here that you can see is the River Indus and the Tato nala that is coming from Raikot Glacier.

At the Raikot Bridge, three jeeps have been waiting for us as they had already been booked in advance. The good thing about the Fairy Meadows is that all the lodging, dining and transport facilities have been provided by the residents of Tato village, so a system has been developed there. You don’t need to waste hours negotiating for jeep fares or porters. Once you have planned to visit Fairy Meadows you just need to book the cottages (there are a number of cottages that are managed by different owners) in advance on phone. You need to tell him about the group and he will arrange the jeep, porters and the horses for you. The fares of the jeeps, porters and even cottages are fairly reasonable and fixed. We had booked the “Fairy Meadows Cottages” and the owner of the cottage (Mr. Qari Rehmatullah) had already sent his assistant Mr. Ahmed to welcome us at Raikot Bridge. So the whole group was distributed among three jeeps and the adventure had begun.

Raikot Bridge is at the height of about 3,900 feet above sea level. The jeep track that starts from here eventually rises and ends at Tato village which is at the height of about 7,900 feet. The jeep track has been constructed by the Tato residents, therefore only their jeeps are allowed. The Pakistani government hasn’t reached here yet, therefore the Pakistani law doesn’t exist. The private sector is the only one managing all the tourism affairs in this part of land and they are doing it quiet well.

I sat at the rightmost corner of the jeep in a position that if you take your head out you will feel that you are flying. Luckily, to my right is the mountain wall and ditch was at the left where my nephew (Musab) was sitting and he had been reciting Surah Yaseen continuously. All of his dirty toilet humor which he had been making for last four days of the trip had literally disappeared and he had been trying reciting all the prayers that he could remember. The jeep track is at a good height and there would be no chance of survival if your jeep went down into the ditch.

The wide valley at the Raikot bridge had now been sandwiched among huge mountains and still there was no sign of Nanga Parbat or Fairy Meadows. Tato River was not visible at this height but its noise was coming, proving its existence.

As we moved ahead, signs of vegetation seemed to appear as few Juniper and Pine trees came across the track. After half of our journey, the jeeps started to descend as the road has to end at Tato village. The weather was pleasant and we were enjoying the jeep ride. Tato village has now been in sight and its green fields at the lower end of the mountain gives the sigh of relief for the dull eyes.

Tato, at the height of 7,900 feet is a small village that lies at the left end of mountains. Here the Raikot River flows ferociously and its roar is quiet significant in the environment. The valley is narrow here and few wooden homes have been scattered on the mountains. The inhabitants of Tato village are Kohistani people who are upright and fierce but yet they are very hospitable as well.

Trek to Mid-way Hotel

The jeep track ended here and we were moved to a café for tea and some rest while the porters had been busy in distributing our luggage. The interesting part of this distribution is that the each bag is weighed and numbered. Than a draw is taken place among the porters and each porter picked the bag whose number matched with the chit that he picked during the draw. It could be a mere 5 kg (minimum weight limit) bag or might be 25 kg (maximum weight limit) as well.

The 6 kms hiking track starts from here and it gains the height of approximately 4,000 feet ( from 7,900 feet to approx 11,500 feet). The most important question was that who wanted to hire a horse here as once you have decided that you want to go to Fairy Meadows on foot, than you have to go there on foot no matter what. Horses cannot be hired in the middle of the track nor could they be shared. This is the general rule about the horse ride but we were lucky enough that on that day, only five horses were available although we required seven. So it was decided that horses will be shared. Five people will start their journey on horses and the rest will start hiking till the horses drop the early riders to Fairy Meadows and picked the rest.

So we all started our hiking together but soon the group was divided into sub-groups as some of us were fast movers while others took breaks more often due to low stamina. The trek is about three to four meters wide (but sometimes reduced to 2 meters approx) and it gradually gains height. We started hiking besides the Raikot River and its thunderous growl was the only symphony that we listened. As we gained height, the trees also increased in numbers. Fortunately, the weather was quiet pleasant and we were protected from the scorching rays of sun. We had to take rest after every 50 meters of hike as we were not used to of mountainous tracks. In fact most of us don’t even walk regularly therefore this hike was definitely the strong test of our fitness.

Ahmed was with us at the end of the queue and he kept pushing us forward, boosting our morale that the rest of hike is just like you are walking on Shahrah-e-Faisal but the more we move forward the more strenuous it becomes. Suddenly the clouds went dark and it started drizzling. Now we can’t wait long as we have to reach Fairy Meadows before the heavy showers as there is a high probability of mud slide. Most of the people among us wanted to enjoy the trek, the weather, and the landscape around us, by keeping our pace slow but the guide and porters were constantly urging us to move fast.

Our first destination was Mid-way hotel, a chappar hotel. It was actually a shelter, made of wood, with a wooden table and benches around it and in normal conditions you may find a cold drink stall there. At the middle of the track we had to do lunch. I had taken a light breakfast therefore I was quiet starved and I kept pushing myself thinking about the yummiest Chicken Karhai that I could have at Mid-way hotel, but when I reached there, I was shocked to see the only eatables we have there were breads, sandwich spreads and marmalades. Even the breads went short as most of us were hungry and tired, so everyone was eating more than what he usually consumes.

Luckily, the heavy rain had just started after all the family members and porters had gathered there. Just in front of the chappar hotel, mud sliding started. It was a shocking experience as you see mountain losing its surface which can bring a disaster as well. There was kind of chaos developed under the chappar, as under that shelter of about ten by ten square feet, nearly 30 people were accommodated. Thanks God that horses were enjoying the rain and they didn’t need shelter.

Trek to Fairy Meadows

After an hour or so the rain stopped but now the temperature has fallen. The journey began again as slow-walkers left early with polyethylene bags on their heads but later on, raincoats had been provided as Ahmed had brought it from Fairy Meadows. The forest just after the Midway Hotel is quite enchanting, very much romantic. Now the real adventure had started because it was land-sliding going on at different turns, the trek itself was hard here, very steep and getting more difficult due to rain.

Just when we reached the steepest part of the track we’d seen one of the beautiful sights of our trip. That was the view of gigantic Raikot Glacier and the starting point of the Raikot River with Nanga Parbat at its back, with its massive presence. Although the huge massif was covered by clouds but even than, the view was amazing. Raikot Glacier rests at the feet of Nanga Parbat like a black cobra. On both sides of the glacier are the mountains covered with thick forests. Raikot River was gushing out from the mouth of Raikot Glacier.

With each step ahead, the view becomes even more mesmerizing. Now we were in deep forest where I saw precious pine trees lying down as they had completed there natural life. The rain water now flows on the track making its way down to Raikot River. We felt that we had been time traveled some 500 years back where you didn’t see any machine or car. The only means of transport available are horses or you have to rely on your legs.

The last portion of the track was the most difficult. We had to hike on a steep cliff with sharp turns. At one point, my wife tried to sit on a horse by taking a step on the rock; the stone of it displaced and went down deep into the ditch. Fortunately, she kept her nerves normal and controlled her balance. She went ahead on a horse but she left a tricky situation for the rest of us. Now the track had been reduced to only one foot wide and we had to literally jump over the muddy portion of the track so as to avoid the risk of falling down in the ice grave.

Here I would like to mention the cooperation and hospitality of the people there. We reached there in pathetic condition and they provided as much help as they can. Most of us had shortage of clothes and accessories as we were not expecting heavy showers. But Ahmed, our guide rushed forward to Fairy Meadows to get enough rain coats for us. He took care of Hiba, my five year old niece as both of her parents were busy balancing themselves on the horses.

Ahmed told us that we are now very near to Fairy Meadows and we just need to climb the last peak but this one was the hardest to pass. We were hardly pulling our legs as we had been extremely tired by now. The track had also become narrow here and only one person can pass by at a time. Suddenly, there was a huge sound like a dynamite blast and we heard something coming down. We were still in shocking state, trying to recognize what had actually happened, when someone called a little native girl, ahead of me to rush forward. She instantly jumped over the sliding area and the very next moment, we saw a huge stone rolling down at tremendous speed. We just had a narrow escape from death.

Fairy Meadows, at last

At last, the steep climb was over and we were on the top of the plateau. But the walk was not over as we have to walk atleast a kilometer more to reach the cottage site. Now we were in a thick jungle with green grasslands everywhere around us. There were streams of clear water flowing across the jungle. The melody of flowing water created a magical symphony. We walked by the jungle, crossed the streams and at last, reached the cottage site.

Cottages are at the height of the plateau with green pastures ahead of them. Two streams cross the green pastures in zig zag fashion. Ahead of green pastures is the forest beyond which is the massif of Nanga Parbat. It is so huge and so near that you can see its ice figures from the naked eye. The whole massif of Nanga Parbat is visible from the camping site and it made a lasting impact on my mind. I could have passed a whole week doing nothing but just sitting in the balcony of my cottage and watching the glorious mountain.

This place is kept as natural as it could be with all possible facilities. There are several lodges at Fairy Meadows. Everything built are of logs (Cottages, boundaries, even trash bins etc.). Our cottages (Fairy Meadows Cottages) were right in front of the grassland and Nanga Parbat ( the view can be seen directly from the window of the lodge or you can even sit in small gallery of your log cabin and enjoy the scene). The cottages are constructed to provide best protection from chilly winds blowing from the Killer Mass. You’ll find all basic amenities; comfortable bed with quilt, toilets and bathroom with shower, warm water is available in the morning, and we were the most fortunate ones that we had found electricity there. These people are now generating their own electricity with water turbine.

The good thing that I found about the people of this area is their awareness about environment and conservation of nature. There were waste bins near cottages where all the garbage was collected. I have seen native people collecting the garbage and advising the tourists not to throw garbage at any place other than waste bins.

Trek to Bial Camp

Next day we planned to move to Bial Camp 6 kms ahead from Fairy Meadows. Bial Camp is at the edge of Raikot Glacier and it is the last green habitat beyond which is only the frozen valley of ice, glaciers and Nanga Parbat. We started our trek in the thick forest, crossing the streams, passing over the dead old trees. On our left, Raikot glacier was lying few hundred feet below. Water from the melting ice was gushing out with a thunderous noise. We kept silent for few moments watching the beautiful scene of the origination of a river.

The trek ahead was quiet narrow and only one person can walk at a time. The caravan had already been divided into sub groups as before. The weather was cloudy and there was a fair chance of rain, therefore the people who were already tired of yesterday hike and were not in any mood to walk again, started complaining but democracy prevailed in our group and we made them walked with us. The trek to Bial camp is comparatively easy than the trek to Fairy Meadows.

After an hour of walk (this is the time that we took otherwise I think an average hiker can reach this spot in half an hour) the trek opened in a wide valley with lush green grassland all around and the swift stream of water flowing nearby. The trees were at its both sides leaving a small ground for camping. Nanga Parbat was still hiding behind the clouds but even than the sight is much beautiful that we decided to have a lunch.

For lunch we had brought tin packs of qeema,achar gosht and beaf butt(which is not actually a butt but Paye). Ahmed brought wood from the jungle. He did not need to cut the wood as there was already ample wood of dead trees. The water had been taken from the nearby stream to boil the tin packs. All the elders of the group have drunk this glacial water and I must say that it was much better than the bottled waters that we are used to of.

That night, we had arranged the camp fire with roasted lamb. Ahmed and his team have collected woods from the jungle and we sat around it watching Ahmed roasting the lamb. The night was cold but the heat of the fire and the aroma of roasted lamb kept us glued to benches. It was a pitch dark with no moonlight, on our back there must be Nanga Parbat but its white icy massif was not visible. The sky was filled with countless stars as they looked quiet closed to us.

Indeed, our experience of Fairy Meadows was remarkable. It is one of the most natural, precious virgin landscapes of Earth. Its originality has still been kept intact, thanks to the native people who have a great concern regarding the protection of the environment and they have adopted the natural sources to build the tourist amenities. Its meadows are green, its forests are dense, its air is refreshing, its streams are virgin and above all the view of Nanga Parbat is unforgettable. This white castle has such a huge influence on the valley that if there would be no green meadows or forest around it, even than, the mountain itself has the power to attract the nature lovers towards it.

Fairy Meadows is an outstanding camping site for adventure seeking people and heaven for hikers. It is accessible throughout the year; however, the winter season is not recommended for occasional travelers. Tourism department must take steps to promote the beautiful destination at the international level as it has the potential to catch the attention of tourists.